David Koma decided to become a British citizen this year and began approaching his “adopted country with a new awareness.” The Tbilisi, Georgia–born designer’s doubling down on Brit culture led him—as is often the way—to football, and so his fall 2022 muses were not supermodels but sports players and supporters. Even hooligans.
He had one particular goal scorer in mind. Trailblazing winger Lily Parr, who Koma came across during a trip to the National Football Museum when up north for a wedding. Parr played for the Dick, Kerr Ladies team in the ’20s and ’30s. The letters DKL spoke to Koma and so he imbued his latest work with the spirit of the woman who paved the way for more females on the pitch. Then he added diamonds.
Koma’s signature seductive crystals have this season become entangled with more British tropes, which take on a new significance in light of the designer’s citizenship. In his hands, the crown jewels became diamanté harnesses; roses were realized in silk macramé; and modish polo shirts morphed into cocktail dresses. If this sounds like a hat trick of tourist memorabilia, from the outside it was business as usual. “Of course there’s glitter and glamour,” he said with a smile.
Rather it was the show venue—an arena-like space near London’s O2—that echoed the vastness of a football stadium. Koma originally wanted to book Wembley, but he had to make do with the panoramic views of the Docklands and some grass installations. No matter; when the David Koma woman hit the runway—especially in the designer’s new “dangerous” stiletto boots—all eyes were on her. “I like feeling an inner strength in the girls,” said Koma, who was buoyed by the profile boost the undressed-dressing trend has afforded his brand.
The man who helped move the goalposts for sparkling eveningwear is now pouring the same amount of attention into outerwear—the kind that’s perfect for shoulder robing en route to the coat check. By the looks of things, he’s expecting to score in this category too.
